Friday 28 December 2012

Grylls in Scotland

As much as I hate Bear Grylls, he had a useful technique for catching fish up in mountain lochs.

http://www.vureel.com/video/25520/ManvsWildS05E09CapeWrathScotland#

http://watchdocumentary.org/watch/man-vs-wild-s01e15-scotland-cairngorms-video_41c1b5c56.html

Thursday 27 December 2012

Organise trip with group to go with nothing

After watching this video:





I thought it would be great to get a group of people together maybe 4 or 5 people and just set off for a week with nothing but:

a rucksack of food each (lots of dryed jerky and foods)
 a knife
strike alight or flint and steel
waterproof trousers and jacket
1 or 2 sets of clothes ( trousers, t shirt, thin and thick fleece, hat)
spare underwear and socks

Emergency (only used in emergency:
sleeping bag and space blanket
mobile phone
first aid kit


Wednesday 26 December 2012

Semi Permanent Shelters

Survival Books an DVDs

A good library of survival books and dvds:

http://www.grannysstore.com/Wilderness_Survival/index.html

http://www.hopspress.com/Videos/Art_of_Nothing.htm

Natural Dying with Red Cabbage

making fabric from nettles and cord

I read in a book that you can make clothing out of nettle fibre, could be quite a sustainable form of fabric production as it grows abundantly with little care.

Nettle fibre:

http://nettlecraft.com/Nettle_Fibres.php

Cordage from nettles how to guide:

http://www.bushcraftstuff.com/tutorials/how-to-make-cordage-from-nettle-fibres/



Monday 24 December 2012

Survival By Mobile Phones and other general items

So imagine your stuck out in the middle of nowhere with just your jacket and your mobile phone and a few random bits of junk.

Well Creek Stewart has come up with some ingenious ways of using your mobile phone to make survival tools.

Article about how to create lures and hooks from a mobile phone

http://willowhavenoutdoor.com/general-survival/survival-by-cellphone-survival-fishing-2/


Article about navigation with a broken mobile phone

"Did you know that all speakers are powered by a magnet? Even the speaker in your cell phone! The magnet is located behind the ear piece of the phone and is typically a circular disk that resembles a watch battery. Once you locate this magnet you can use it to magnetize a small piece of wire (1” or less) or thin metal. Be sure the metal piece is magnetic and capable of being attracted to the magnet. It has to contain iron or steel to work properly. To magnetize the needle, stroke it with the magnet back and forth about 15 times."

http://willowhavenoutdoor.com/willowhaven-videos/survival-by-cellphone-navigation/

As a signalling mirror, using circuit board as knife, curcuit board as arrow head, ear phones as snare wire, battery and thin wire to light fire

http://artofmanliness.com/2012/06/14/survival-cell-phone/

A link to Creek's new book " Survival by Cell Phone"

http://willowhavenoutdoor.com/wilderness-survival-news-and-updates/creek-stewart-book-almost-finished/#comments


Article about 11 ways to use a condom as a survival tool

Including CONDOMS in survival kits is not a new idea.  People have been packing them in mini survival kits for as long as I can remember – using them primarily as an expandable WATER CONTAINER.

-amazing compact water containers that can hold as much as 2 liters of water if handled properly

-CONDOM DRILL FIRE by FRICTION SET 
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9FwTGFLKnE&feature=player_embedded)

-Condom slingshot

-crude rubber glove for first aid

...

Buy non-lubricated & no spermicide condoms

http://willowhavenoutdoor.com/featured-wilderness-survival-blog-entries/1-ways-a-condom-can-save-your-life-multi-functional-survival-uses-for-a-condom/


Article on improvised purse survival

-dental floss snare lines or fishing line

-hand sanitizer and lip balm fire extenders 

-make up mirror for signaling

-tampon to use as tinder, medical bandage, wick for candle, cordage for trap...
(http://willowhavenoutdoor.com/featured-wilderness-survival-blog-entries/yes-thats-a-tampon-in-my-mouth-the-swiss-army-survival-tampon-7-survival-uses/)

-hair pin fishing hooks

-nail file fishing spear head

http://willowhavenoutdoor.com/featured-wilderness-survival-blog-entries/this-ones-for-the-ladies-improvised-purse-survival/


Article on a bacon survival candle

http://willowhavenoutdoor.com/featured-wilderness-survival-blog-entries/diy-make-a-romantic-bacon-scented-survival-candle/





Wednesday 19 December 2012

Juniper Smoke Bundles

White Sage can be pretty hard to get hold of in Scotland but I heard that a strong incense can be made from crushed juniper berries, pine resin and pine needles. Juniper branch bundles once dried light easily and release and aromatic smoke. This was used in the Northern regions in the past to purify spaces.

Sunday 9 December 2012

Making Mukluks

http://www.ehow.com/how_8531147_instructions-mukluks.html

http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_5746489_make-mukluks-moose-hide.html

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=39230



Great books to buy:

http://www.amazon.ca/Secrets-Eskimo-Skin-Sewing-Wilder/dp/1889963127/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1334417300&sr=8-2




http://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=4988605069&searchurl=an%3DGeorge%2BWhite%26ph%3D2%26sortby%3D3%26tn%3DCraft%2BManual%2BOf%2BNorth%2BAmerican%2BFootwear

Hunting Trap Alert using Mobile Phone SMS

So I have been thinking for a while whether there was a way to alert me when my hunting traps have been tripped in order to get to the caught creature in the quickest time.
After playing with electronics at University for the past few years I had the idea that maybe an old mobile phone could come in Handy to send this alert.

Resources:
-old Mobile phone (uses low power e.g. black and white screen and can be set to not lock or go on standby)
-pay as you go sim with small amount of credit on it
 -switch button or motion sensor
-humane rabbit trap
-waterproof case/container

The plan:
Through setting up an electronic switch under the traps foot plate. When the foot plate is pressed it shuts the traps doors at the same time pressing the plate against the switch. The switch is then connected through wires up to the send button on the phone which is switched on and has my own mobile number put in to a text as well as a message saying "Trap Tripped". The mobile phone which is housed in a waterproof and consealed container sends the sms/ text to my own phone. I get the text instantly and can go pick up my rabbit straight away. Perfect for me living in the city and having my trap set in a more rural area.

useful link:

http://www.instructables.com/id/15-minutes-SMS-door-entry-alarm/?ALLSTEPS

 http://www.instructables.com/id/The-S45-SMS-Alarming-System/?ALLSTEPS

http://www.robotmotion.gr/robotmotion/Projects/Entries/2011/9/5_GSM_motion_detect_alarm_system.html

http://www.hacktronics.com/Tutorials/arduino-motion-sensor.html

https://github.com/mattwilliamson/arduino-sms-alarm


Monday 19 November 2012

debri shelter

How to Build a Survival Shelter


Sleeping outside in a primitive survival shelter with no tent and no sleeping bag?! In the rain? Are you crazy?
This idea may indeed seem crazy and a bit daunting to many of us. However, with a couple of hours, proper materials and the right mindset, constructing and sleeping in a primitivesurvival shelter can be a life-changing experience. Although there are many types of group and individual primitive survival shelters, at Wilderness Awareness School, we often begin by teaching our students how to build a survival shelter called a debris hut. These structures are fairly easy to construct and can be a warm, dry place to spend the night.
First of all, location is key. Aside from the normal criteria which includes avoiding low spots, steering clear of standing dead trees, etc….proximity to materials can save a lot of time and energy. Take the time to find a spot that feels right.
For construction, the first thing you’ll need to build a survival shelter is a strong ridegepole that is at least a little taller than you are with your arm stretched above your head. You’ll also need something for one end of the ridgepole to securely rest on—a stump, boulder, fork of a tree, some kind of prop. The other end rests on the ground. At the high end, the ridgepole should be at about hip height.
Once your ridgepole is in place, you’ll need ribbing. Lean the ribs against the ridgepole fairly close together leaving a door at the high end. Once ribs are in place, crawl inside feet first checking to see that you have a little room to move, but that it is still snug and cozy. If your survival shelter is too big, you will have trouble staying warm. Imagine you are making a sleeping bag out of natural materials!
debris hut
Drawings by Laura
Next, add a layer of lattice, something to act as a net to hold debris in place when it is piled on next. Brush and twiggy branches may work well. The debris that you have available can help determine how small the spaces in your lattice can be.
The structure is now in place and it is time for the essential component of insulation. Of all the things you’ll learn about how to build a survival shelter, not having enough insulation on a cold night will teach you quickly what is required. Get ready to shuffle your feet or makeyourself a rake and start gathering debris! For good insulation, you’ll want material that can trap air. Obviously, dry material is optimal. Pile on your leaves, ferns, grass, or other available debris.
Keep piling, keep piling, go for TWO FEET THICK or more if you might get rained on. Be sure to close up the door area so that you have just enough room to squeeze in without disturbing the structure. Crawl in to see how your cocoon feels. Finish up your insulation by adding some small branches that will hold the debris in case of wind, maintaining as much loft as possible.
Now that the outer layer is complete, it is time to stuff your primitive survival shelter with dry soft debris. If you only have wet leaves, use them anyway, you may get wet, but you can still be warm. Once your shelter is full of debris, wiggle in to compress a space for your body. Add more debris as needed, and don’t forget the foot area! Fill up the spaces if you are concerned about being cold. Before you crawl in for the night in your primitive shelter, gather a pile of leaves near the door so that you can close yourself in most of the way.
Aside from having a great story to tell your grandkids one day — or from being able to teach others how to build a survival shelter, spending a night in a survival shelter like a debris hut is an opportunity to overcome fears and gain feelings of freedom and confidence. Pushing our mental and physical comfort edges also brings us chances to find greater comfort and appreciation in our daily lives. HAPPY BUILDING AND SWEET DREAMS!

How to Build a Survival Shelter

http://www.eseeknives.com/AAO_Apr11.pdf

 The debris hut is one of the fastest and easiest shelters you can make with no tools or special equipment. The concept in construction is very much like the way some animals, like squirrels, build their homes or nests. Depending upon how well it is constructed it is a very snug, warm and dry shelter good for tempratures ranging from well below -10°F to 90°F even without fire or proper clothing.
It is constructed out of debris found on the forest floor. The debris can be anything from dirt, snow, leaves, pine needles or anything that will trap insulating dead-air space. In fact, more debris = warmth, so you can never pile on too much debris. The debris forms the insulating layer that keeps the heat (your body heat) inside the structure, and so keeps you warm. Actually, the picture above is of a debris hut I made out of pine needles with Phragmite door embelishments.

As a rule where cold and/or wet conditions exits and hypothermia may be a risk, at least 24" of debris covering the top and sides is required.

Debris Hut Insulation Chart
Debris Amt. Temp.
36" (approx. 3') down to 30°F
48" (approx. 4') down to 0°F
54" (approx. 5') down to -20°F
66" (approx. 6') down to -40°F
You enter this type of shelter feet first and you may even bring in extra debris to pack around you once inside. Use debris on the floor for as a pad for sleeping and to retain body heat that can be lost by laying on the cold bare ground.

Mark your debris hut so you can find it from the outside easily. The nature of the debris hut is that it blends in perfectly with the surroundings. If someone is trying to find you they will have a hard time seeing your hut.

If you are concerned about creepy-crawlies that live in the debris or may take up residence in your hut simply smudge the inside of your debris hut out with braided sage or a leafy branch for about 15-30mins.

WARNING: Since the Debris Hut is essentially a giant tinder bundle, NEVER build a fire inside your debris hut. Make sure your fire is well away from your hut.

Sunday 18 November 2012

Homemade shelter stove with chimney

Could be good to make home made light stove with chimney which goes under ground then just lets out smoke just on surface.

Winter Shelter and Homemade Stove - YouTube

Wool jacket winter clothing


Cardboard good ground insulation

Bring cardboard and some foil to insulate from ground


Poncho multi uses

I have been looking at the german rubberised poncho which is pretty much 100% waterproof and is pretty fire resistant and tough

Features:

-Drawstring on hood
-8 eyelets with cords on corners for tying down
-8 press studs 

Uses:
-Poncho
-Emergency sleeping bag cover- make into tube
-shelter/ tent- join two ponchos together with press studs
-bivi
-ground sheet
-tarp
-rain catcher







Macgyered sleeping bag goes inside poncho from blanket and space blanket 

WWII navy blanket, folded it in half and then sewed it across the bottom and 3/4 of the way up the side. I then took a space blanket, folded it over and taped it together (totally waterproof). Putting the wool blanket inside the space blanket makes for a decent sleeping bag and keeps out moisture from the ground.


SOE Day Audley End 006

great uses for ponchos-- even a sail for kyaks In the Same Boat - Paddling.Net

Great bug out kit:
-gortex boots
-waterproof trousers
-bivy bag
-rubberised poncho
-self inflating mat




Great little instruction video



Sunday 4 November 2012

Horse Hoof Fungus

Video on how to process Horse Hoof Fungus:

-Chisel out inside of fungus
-Chisel off hard exterior
-wet amadou then hammer out


Saturday 3 November 2012

Tanning and Processing Hides

Process Hides (There are many different methods. Dry-scrape, wet-scrape, braining, smoking, pre-smoking and fur tanning ...)

 ----------------------------

How to Defrorst Skins

 When I bring home deer hides that are frozen and rolled two to a plastic trash bag, I hit them with a hose on the outside, then drop them in a 33 ga. Rubbermaid trash container for a while. I work on them a little, unrolling them as  they thaw a bit. After 3 hrs or so I expect to have them at least pulled apart. At that point I will change the water, wash  them well with the hose and return to fresh water in the barrel . Using the warm water will help for sure at the first step, and I have done that many times, but be sure to change to cold for soak till you are ready to transport to avoid spoilage.

Soak overnight/ thaw

---------------------------- 

-Skin hide from carcass

-If you do not plan to tan the hide immediately after skinning it, remove as much of the flesh, fat, membranous tissue as possible. Lightly sprinkle salt over the inside (hairless) of the hide, tightly roll it and place in a freezer

-The removal of the fat, flesh and tissue is the most important step. Place the hide on a large flat surface for scraping the flesh side of the hide. Make sure all the fat and flesh is completely removed or the hide will not tan properly. Warning: this process should not be rushed. It is hard work and requires time and patience. A sharp knife makes for quick work, but there is too much risk of ruining the hide with a slip. Scrapers made of bone or brass tube with a flattened end

- Hair Removal (or skip to next step if want hair on)

If you plan to tan both sides of the hide to make buckskin. Mix One (1) gallon of hardwood ashes, Two (2) pounds of slaked lime, with five gallons of warm water in a large barrel. Stir until dissolved. Immerse the hide. Stir two or three times daily for three to four days or until all the hair comes off easily. Warning: If the hide is left in the mixture too long, it will deteriorate.
Remove the hide from the barrel and rinse in cold water. Place the hide on a raised surface with the hair side up. Use the back of a knife blade or wood scraper to scrape off the hair. Rinse the de-haired skin several times with clean water. Place the hide back in the empty barrel. Pour in ten (10) gallons of cold water and two (2) quarts of vinegar. Replace the hide and soak for 24 hours. Stir every 4 hours. After 24 hours, empty the garbage can and fill it with clean water. Soak the hide in the clean water overnight.



-CLEANING- NEUTRALIZING
 Dissolve one (1) pound of alum in one (1) gallon of warm water in a small bucket. Pour 2 ½ pounds of salt in the large barrel with four (4) gallon of cold water. Pour the contents of the small bucket into the large barrel and mix thoroughly. Replace the hide in the large barrel and soak for six (6) to seven nine (9) days, depending on the weather. Stir the mixture a couple of times a day making sure the entire hide is always immersed. After soaking, remove the hide, drain and thoroughly rinse.

-DRYING - SOFTENING
 Place the wet hide out of the direct sunlight on an upright flat plywood surface with flesh-side out. Allow to partially dry and rub lightly with warm Neat’s Foot Oil. Remove it from the board and repeat the process on the other side. Remove excess oil with an absorbent cloth.

-SOFTENING 
Lightly dampen the hide with a cloth. Remove excess water. Gently rub the hide using a back-and forth motion across a smooth (no splinters please) surface, a log, saw horse, metal pole. Continue the process until the hide is soft and supple. Very lightly apply Neat’s Foot Oil when needed.

-SANDING
 After softening the hide, rub fine grit sandpaper over the surface of the hide to remove tool marks and further soften the leather. When it looks very soft and smooth, your buckskin is ready for use in making clothing, bags, wall handing or anything else you desire.

---------------

How to Tan using Leder Tanning Kit:

-Flesh them, removing all meat, fat or inner membrane off the skin

 - Skin should be salted immediately after skinned, rub salt well into the skin and fold in half, and then half again the other way. when folding, it's flesh to flesh, so theres just hair showing on the outside, then just fold over, you don't want exposed skin air drying so much faster then the salted inner parts.

 -if wish to store then follow step otherwise skip
Then place on a slope of around 10 to 20 degrees with the open ends downhill and place a flat piece of wood on top and few blocks, brick or rocks to press it down and squeeze out the moisture. the next day scrape off all the old wet salt, save this to dry and re-use on another skin, and re-apply dry salt, refold and weigh down again. Drying to a stiff stage like heavy old damp oilskin will do, but better is to about the stiffness of old cardboard.
Skin must be tanned within one month.

- Mix Leder Tanning Formula with water in a suitable bucket or tub. Place skins and salt into the solution. The tanning process takes between 3 to 10 days depending on the thickness of the skins.

- When the tanning process is complete, wash skin and apply Leder Leather Lube with a soft brush. Peg out skin to dry.

---------------

More details Tan with Leder tanning Kit:


good link : Eight Acres: Tanning a hide

9.5 Seconds? (or: Skinning Newbie) - New Zealand Airgunners Forum


http://www.lifestyleblock.co.nz/lsb-forum/showthread.php?t=13017

---------------

Preparing Hides

 http://www.ehow.com/how_5728456_prepare-hides-tanning.html

---------------
 How to Smoke Tan Skin

http://www.wikihow.com/Tan-a-Hide

  1. Clean the flesh side of the hide by scraping it with a blade. Bone fleshers were once used for this purpose. You want to remove all the flesh and blood stains.

  2. Soak the fleshed hide in clean water for three days and three nights. If you want a plain skin rather than a fur, de-hair it: wring the hide out and fasten one end of it to a fence or tree, and scrape the hide to remove the hair. If the hair is really long, cut it first. Go against the grain of the hair, and scrape away from yourself.
  3. Soak the fleshed and de-haired hide in a mixture of brains and water. Every animal has just enough brains to tan its hide. Simmer the brains in water with a little fat in it, then rub the mixture onto both sides. Rub it in well until it is almost absorbed. If the hide is dry, get it wet and soft before rubbing on the brain mixture. Now sprinkle the hide with warm water and roll it up tightly. Let it set overnight.
    • There are also more convenient chemical tanning methods.
  4. Loop the hide over a stout stick, then take the two ends and twist the hide into a thick rope.
    Loop the hide over a stout stick, then take the two ends and twist the hide into a thick rope.
    Loop the hide over a stout stick, then take the two ends and twist the hide into a thick rope. Roll the sides up toward the middle first. Use another stout stick at the other end and overlap the ends. Grab hold of the ends and the stick and wring the moisture out of the hide. This also stretches it. Place the hide on a big piece of wood and scrape it again on both sides to remove any remaining little scraps of flesh, hair, or liquid. Now you need to stretch the hide back to its original size.
  5. Hold onto the hide tightly and use your hands and feet to stretch it as much as you can. Make a rough wooden frame larger than the original hide. Punch holes all around the edges of the hide, about 3 inches (7.6 cm) apart. Use leather thongs or waterproof cord to attach the hide to the frame, making the hide taut.
  6. Turn to the hair side and work the hide with your hands and a tool to soften the hide and stretch it. In the old days people used a bone or antler with a stone lashed to it, but later on people used a tool like a small hoe. Guide the scraper with your left hand and use your right hand to press hard to break the hide down and soften it. You'll have to tighten up the cords now and then to keep it taut.
  7. Note that once the skin is soft, pliable, and dry it is ready to be smoked. Stitch up any holes in the hide, then sew it up the sides of the hide to make a bag. Close one end so it is pretty tight - tight enough to hold the smoke. Invert the skin bag over a hole about a foot across and half that deep. Use sticks to make a rough frame to hold the skin bag open, and you can tie the closed end to a tree or use another long stick to keep it up.
  8. Make a small smoky fire built in the hole to smoke the skin. Once the little fire has a coal bed built up, start adding smoke chips to it and peg the skin around the hole. A little channel tunneled out to one side will allow you to keep the fire supplied. Once the inside is smoked, turn the bag inside out and smoke the other side. The smoking doesn't take very long. A very thin hide might be done in ten minutes (one side). Thick moccasin hide might take an hour.


---------------

Tools:

-C clamps (useful for stretching out skins without piercing/ tearing)
-Sapling frame or slanted plywood
-Bucket
-Brass tube with flattened end (seen on Ray Mears)
-wooden clothes pegs

Materials: (optional)

-Hide
-Oak Bark
-Lime
-Vinegar
Borax

------------

How to Tan with Borax

http://www.ehow.com/how_7317939_tan-borax.html


----------------

How to make Sheepskin

http://www.ehow.com/way_5537857_directions-make-sheepskin.html

---------------

Ray Mears and Trapper Jake


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QxaO4teWmA

----------------

Hair on Skin Tanning

http://www.manataka.org/page27.html

----------------

There are three cardinal rules in hunting wild life. Violate them and you risk becoming nothing more than a bloodthirsty butcher of life.
Preservation:  Never take the first animal you see.  Let it go.  The chances are you will see more.  If you do not see another all day, chances are your decision to allow the first to go free was a wise one.  It is obvious the population in the area is small and killing the first animal may be among the last you will see in that area for many years.  Do not be greedy in thinking "If I do not kill this one, someone else will."  Do not be lazy by thinking, "Oh gosh, should I continue to tromp around these woods all day?  This may be my last chance."   Do not rely on government bureaucrat so-called scientific population counts.  Do your part to keep a strong population by never killing the first in-season animal you see.   
  
Respect:  Kneel where the animal fell and give thanks to the animal spirits and the Creator for providing food for your family. Show respect for the animal and its family. Apologize to the animal for taking its life. Leave in the place where the animal fell something useful to its cousins. Corn or a small piece of salt lick is good for deer. This last piece of advise about leaving a gift can cause a problem because it may be at first thought by a game warden that the gift is "baiting", an illegal act in most jurisdictions.  We do not have any suggestions for avoiding this conflict of thought, however, we believe that an act of kindness, even if temporarily misunderstood, will be sorted out by a discerning game official in a good way -- especially if you live in the area, they know you and you have informed them of your philosophy before hunting.  

Responsible Use:  Use every bit of the animal. Leave as little as possible. Again, the key word is respect. Wasting precious life is a violation of the Creator’s laws of nature. There are many good uses for the less desirable parts of the animal.

 http://www.manataka.org/page27.html



Thursday 1 November 2012

Red and White Clover



Red Clover:
-The leaves, flowers, seeds, and roots of clovers are all edible.

-The young leaves, taken before the plant flowers, can be eaten raw in salads. As the plant matures, cooking the leaves is recommended. The dried leaves are said to add a slightly vanilla-like flavor to baked goods. In my own experience with clover leaves, I found them to be rather bitter (maybe I picked them at the wrong time). I stick to the flowers.

-The roots should be eaten cooked.

-The flowers and seeds are the parts of the clover that are of greatest interest to most foragers. The flowers are used raw in salads as well as sauteed, stir-fried, or fried as fritters. They are also popular for making teas and wines.

-The flowers and seeds can be dried and ground into a flour.

Here are a few clover recipes:

Sunday 14 October 2012

Crocosmia, the orange invassive plant

Crocosmia aurea, an iris family plant native to South Africa, has several edible uses. Its orange flowers produce edible yellow dye for coloring foods. East Africans treat malaria with a beverage made from its leaf sap and corms, and a rheumatism-treating drink from its roots.

Wednesday 3 October 2012

Bull Whip Kelp baskets, rattles and fishing line

Bull Whip Kelp can be used for a number of uses; here is a list of a variety of uses:

http://www.primitiveways.com/bull_whip_kelp.html

It can also be used on the garden:

"I dry it in the sun and then shred it.It does contain a natural growth hormone,so don't use a lot of it on your tomatoes.I also dig some in with compost.works really great for nitrogen loving plants.It also contains most of the trace elements that plants need for healthy growth"

 http://www.backwoodshome.com/forum/vb/showthread.php?t=355

Guide to making bull whip baskets

http://www.deepcraft.org/deep/archives/120

Sunday 23 September 2012

Fireweed for food and other uses

Edible Uses:
Leaves and young shoot tips of fireweed are edible, raw or cooked. Early season shoots are considered to be delicacy by some, and are harvested late spring or early in the summer. Shoots and young stems are peeled and can be eaten raw or steamed as a substitute for asparagus. When properly prepared soon after picking they are a good source of vitamin C and pro-vitamin A. Yupik eskimos preserved the stems in seal oil in order to have them year-round, and their name for Fireweed, Pahmeyuktuk, referred to its edibility. The peelings of the stems were not wasted as they were dried and used to weave strong twine for fishing nets. 
Very young leaves are also edible in salads or in soups or steeped for use as a tonic tea for upset stomach. The leaves should only be used when they are young, and with moderation. Infusions of leaves have been known to cause nausea. Mature leaves become tough and bitter, but by then the unopened flowerbuds are tasty for salads or in stir-fries. A syrup was traditionally extracted from the stems and flowers, having a high mucilage content that made it useful among native peoples in preparing berry-cakes that dry solidly. Today the flowers are harvested to make Fireweed Jelly, available from small cottage-industry canning companies. Pioneer Alaskans used the sweet pith in the manufacture of ales and vinegars. The root can be eaten raw, cooked or dried and ground into a powder. Used in spring, it has a sweet taste. 

Medicinal Uses:
Although sometimes considered a weed, it has a long history of use as a medicinal plant. The herb is antispasmodic, hypnotic, laxative and tonic, and has agents that cause tissue to contract, and that soften and soothe the skin when applied locally. Historically, medicinal use includes oral use of the plant extracts, often in the form of an infusion or tea, as a treatment for prostate and urinary problems including benign prostatic hyperplasia or enlarged prostate, and for various gastrointestinal disorders such as dysentery or diarrhea. Topically the plant has been used traditionally as a soothing, cleansing and healing agent to treat minor burns, skin rashes, ulcers, and numerous other skin irritations and afflictions.
Chemically, the plant contains an abundance of phenolic compounds, tannins and flavonoids, many of which appear to have biological activity. Fireweed is also a medicine of the Upper Inlet Denalina, who treat pus-filled boils or cuts by placing a piece of the raw stem on the afflicted area. This is said to draw the pus out of the cut or boil and prevents a cut with pus in it from healing over too quickly. The Blackfoot Indians used the powdered inner cortex rubbed on the hands and face to protect them from the cold during the winter. They also made a tea of roots and inner cortex given to babies as an enema for constipation.


Other Uses:
A fiber obtained from the outer stems can be used to make cordage. The 'cottony' seed hairs has been used as a stuffing material or as tinder.


Saturday 22 September 2012

Cleaver Coffee


Recently I was reading that Cleavers make good Coffee, as it is the time of year(September) when they produce seeds I thought I better give it a try.




I found out that Cleavers are very closely related to Coffee in the family Rubiaceae, so hopefully it yealds good results.

Once picked, I then dried and roasted them at 50 degrees for about 30 minutes in the Oven.

Alternatively you can leave them to dry for a week then roast for 5 minutes in the Oven.

Once dried/roasted I...



How to make Cleaver Coffee


Along with a few other tips I picked up:

The seeds make a reasonable coffee substitute when dried for a week, then roasted in a hot oven for 5 minutes, ground and steeped in boiling water as you would for ground coffee beans. Similarly to coffee and not surprisingly due to them both being members of the family Rubiaceae, goosegrass coffee contains caffeine although at a much lower level than real coffee beans.

Traditionally, (among the traditional and cash-strapped) roasting of coffee beans, seeds and other botannicals was done in the omniprescient black iron skillet; dry and over a medium flame. You must stir constantly however to avoid scorching. Modern folk however have been known to try those air-pump popcorn machines with similar success. Given their relative density, I should think this would work for goosefoot as well, but eww, the prickery outer skin! Never leave such a project unmanned, or for a minute stop stirring or shaking the pan if you're working with that.

Slow-roasted (low temperature) roasted ripe seeds when ground make a good coffee substitute without caffein. 
Cleavers seed is one of the best coffee substitutes, it merely needs to be dried and lightly roasted and has much the same flavor as coffee.

http://www.altnature.com/gallery/cleavers.htm


Horse Chestnut oil and soap

Recently I have been looking into Horse Chestnut as a soap substitute after seeing the effectiveness of a soapy leaved plant in Australia that produces a vast amount of suds and being told be an aboriginal elder that keeping your skin clean is of vast importance as it is the largest organ in the body. If you don't keep it clean then illness can occur in other parts of the body.
This got me wondering how did people keep clean in the Uk before we could buy soap in the shops.

Have heard about Horse Chestnut's soapy properties I gathered some leaves in mid september and pulled them into large chunks and set them in warm water. Upon sqeezing the leaves after a few minutes I could see oil dropplets dripping into the water. The oil given off was very soft on the skin.
The next day i checked back to find the oil had all seaped out leaving the water a lovely hazelnut colour. Upon testing I found it a very nice hand wash.
My next step is to research how to make concentrate and produce soap.

From recent research I have found out that It greatly improves blood circulation and was once used to treat varacos veins, hardening of the arteries, phlebitis, leg ulcers, frostbite along with a variety of other vascular problems and horse chestnut also contains anti-inflammatory properties.

 http://www.herbwisdom.com/herb-horse-chestnut.html

Grimbo;s horse chestnut soap... - YouTube

Horse Chestnut is an astringent, anti-inflammatory herb that helps to tone the vein walls which, when slack or distended, may become varicose, haemorrhoidal or otherwise problematic. The plant also reduces fluid retention by increasing the permeability of the capillaries and allowing the re-absorption of excess fluid back into the circulatory system.

Not only does horse chestnuts inprove circulation but it also proves to be good for body washing as well as washing fabric(gently on wools and silks).

"In the past, horse-chestnut seeds were used in France and Switzerland for whitening hemp, flax, silk and wool. They contain a soapy juice, fit for washing of linens and stuffs, for milling of caps and stockings, etc., and for fulling of cloth. For this, 20 horse-chestnut seeds were sufficient for six litres of water. They were peeled, then rasped or dried, and ground in a malt or other mill. The water must be soft, either rain or river water; hard well water will not work. The nuts are then steeped in cold water, which soon becomes frothy, as with soap, and then turns milky white. The liquid must be stirred well at first, and then, after standing to settle, strained or poured off clear. Linen washed in this liquid, and afterwards rinsed in clear running water, takes on an agreeable light sky-blue colour. It takes spots out of both linen and wool, and never damages or injures the cloth." Wikipedia

chop some conkers and boil them for awhile and than use this water for washing





Making Horse Chestnut Soap

-Hit nuts with hammer
-peel nuts
-Slice nuts then put in boiling water
-let sit in water for 10 minutes or so
-soak in soapy water



Seem to take out more stains than the regular soap and much kinder than chemicals



grate all the horse-chestnuts to make a very smooth cream. Or put chestnuts inside a mixer and spin it fast but unfortunately the texture obtained is a bit more rough. If you have time or friends who would love to prepare their own soap, I would suggest you go back to the “old fashioned” method.
When you are done with the mixer – or with the grater – you can add some flowers to give  your soap a nice smell. The nuts don’t really smell like anything so I used a few desiccated lavender flowers.
You can use  a cap from a jar to shape the soap
Then either leave in the sun to dry or a dehydrator or put it in the oven at 100° and let it dry, turning it at least once.




Fluorescence of Horse Chestnut - Photo by

Great guide on how to make chestnut salve(simple)

All in all Horse Chestnuts seem very undervalued as a medical and cleaning resource.

Wednesday 15 August 2012

great 10 piece compact survivial kit

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttRFIvsuf4A&feature=relmfu

DIY and multipurpose blow gun

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjIUuvausnw&feature=relmfu

Slingshot Arrows

Take a slingshot such as a cobra and modify to fire arrows. Small portable and lethal enough to kill game the size of deer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NGIcCRJGYug&feature=relmfu

Bola

The Bola is a primitive tool compromising of three lengths of cord and 3 objects tied to the end of each cord.
The benifits of this weapon is that it can be carried( doesnt require concealment) in urban areas without arousing suspision then used to hunt when you return out to an urban area.

There are many different types of bola, some with three weights and some with 5 or more. Some early Bolas only had one string and one rock and were used to kill Pumas.

Some things I have heard about Bolas:

"they need to be different weights so they spin at different speeds"

"one string sould be longer than the other two"

"the rounder and smoother the weights the better it will fly through the air"

"drill a hole in your weights so they don't fly off"

"3 leather bags full of steel shot and soft nylon braided 3/8 inch rope tied an equal distance (38 inches) from a central knot. I hold one ball in my left hand, swing the other two horizontal to the ground, and let the bola fly a little in front of the running bird. Just as I release the 2, I release the third with a slight flip to the right. They fly like a helicopter and will wrap up a 45 kg emu instantly. I don't know if I'm doing this right as I have never seen a Gaucho demonstrate, but I can catch a 35 mph emu without hurting him."

"The indians and matreros (outlaws) used the two weights type to break the telegraph lines. I passed many summers in the field with a cousin. The field keeper (the puestero) used part of a discarded grain sac to make two bags (roughly rectangles of 10 x 20 cm), filled them with gravel and tied with 1.5 metres of rope. It's a very simple boleadora, and it can be used to play with little risk (if you can avoid impacts on the head of your cousin, everything will be OK :-). If used near the house, you can put some grass inside the bag to soften the impact a little, or fill with grain. After the bags broke and without the possibility of repair (they lasted two weeks)."

"*The boleadora was not only a throwing weapon, but the Indians use them as well as a fencing weapon. And in that sense it was a really fearful, horrific one. In order to use the boleadora as a fencing weapon, they had to be standing. They held one of the balls between the big toe and the "index finger" of the foot; the other two balls were held on each hand from the chord. Then, they moved forward, slowly, step by step, moving the balls in his hand in a fast revolving motion. If you were attacked in this way, you were in trouble."

"The weights were usually covered in fresh leather that when dried would shrink to cover the weight snugly."(so as not to hurt so much if you hit yourself or to make a smoother surface to fly through air?)

Materials you could make them out of:

lead fishing weights

para cord

string

shoe laces

leather pouches full of sand

tennis balls

references:
http://www.flight-toys.com/bolas.htm